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I've had some vapor-lock issues with my '55 Firedome. In an effort to cool things off, I decided to use a 160 degree thermostat. I removed the old one and tested it in a pot of water with a candy thermometer. 63 years old and still works as designed.
I ordered a 160 degree Stant #33026 which was advertised as a replacement for a '55 DeSoto. It did not fit; too big. Wrong part in box? I don't know.
I checked with another vendor and he measured a Stant #13926 for me and it looked like it would work. Under $7 including shipping. It fit and it works. Of interest is that with the new thermostat, the bypass is always open, unlike the original, where the bypass closes as the thermostat opens. The new one is sort of a compromise, but seems to work OK.
Over ninety on Sunday so I went for a nice drive. Stopped by a friend's house and parked in the sun. After a little visit, it cranked right up. So the one sixty thermostat has seemingly solved my vapor lock problem.
Thanks for the update! Glad to hear there are workable solutions out there.
It's supposed to be fun!
1949 De Soto Custom Convertible (project)
Steve: I think you are confusing over heating and vapor lock. Vapor lock is caused by the temperature of the engine after running and since the fuel line runs up from the FP and goes close to the intake and exhaust manifold the heat will cause the fuel in the line and also in the carb bowel to vaporize and boil and this then cause the fuel not to be available to start the car. This is vapor lock out. After a car has cooled down the gas flows again with out the vaporizing. Some people put wooden clip on clothes pins on the fuel line and this helps other have installed a metal shield over the top of the fuel pump and others have installed a metal plate under the bottom of the cab to help stop the heat from getting to the fuel line and keep the gas cool.
Rich Hartung
