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July 2025 I blew the head gasket on my 1950 S-14. I drove it for approximately 1 mile before I could stop and figure out what happened. Did notice that temperature gauge spiked. Once engine cooled. Opened radiator and found no water. I checked oil dip stick. White foamy oil. I figured I had blew the head gasket. Towed it home and started it up to back it in the garage. Pulled head and found the gasket broke between #6 and #5 cylinder. Replace gasket and torques down head. It would not restart. Buy the way I broke temperature gage line when removing it. Got that fixed. Company in CA put new bulb on and refiled with either. Let me know if anyone needs their contact. Checked compression. had between 50 to 80 PSI in each cylinder. Have sprayed Sea Foam and Marvel Mystery Oil through plug holes, multiple times. Let soak for several days. Got compression up to 90,90,70,80,80 and 60. Still will not start but is firing occasionally but not starting. More problems now. When removing the fuel line from carbonator. to check fuel pump. The threads in the carburetor for the brass fitting, that the float needle vale seal in, stripped out. Do you think I could drill out and put a thread insert in the carburetor with gas resistant sealant? The car has 102k miles. I also noticed when trying to start there was some fuel that leaked out around the shaft for the throttle butterfly on bottom of carburetor. Didn't notice this when the engine was running, just trying to start. But i figured this may have because the fitting was not tight into carburetor, due to bad threads, and the needle didn't seal tight allowing excess fuel into carburetor. The reason I asked is someone told me that where the throttle butterfly rod turns can wear allowing to suck air in. They said I may need to get the new bushing put in around that shaft. Has anyone else heard of that? While looking at fixing carburetor. I may pull the head and put more cleaners directly in each cylinder. I don't know how much I got in each cylinder spraying it in through the plug holes as they are over the valves not the piston. If I go this far, should I consider changing the rings? Can I drop oil pan and take connecting rod off crank shaft and push piston up, out through the top, high enough to change rings? Then I would also change connecting rod bearings and while there change crankshaft bearings.
I would appreciate any and all advice and thoughts. Anyone have a carburetor for this engine? I have the Fulid Drive.
Hey, John- Getting higher compression readings by adding oil to the cylinders indicates that your rings are worn. The service manual calls for 125-135 with a minimum of 80. Even with the low compression, it should still start.
Go back to basics and verify that everything is set to specs. It sounds like you're getting fuel. Recheck your distributor point gap and ignition timing. Verify that you are getting spark. If your carb is leaking, it may be flooded. If so, hold both the throttle and the choke wide open while cranking.
Good Luck!
Glenn
I'd also add to Glenn's suggestions that having the carburetor (or a different one from a parts car) rebuilt might also be good if you are worried about leaking or worn parts. Also, if you end up tearing the motor down as far as you are indicating, consider replacing the freeze/expansion plugs while it's all accessible to help ensure many carefree years with those.
You may also try contacting the club's '50 tech advisor to see if they have additional suggestions or thoughts on this.
Best of luck!
I did find a local carburetor repair shop. He has a parts carburetor and is in the process of rebuilding mine. He was not concerned about the leaking while trying to start the car he said that will go away if the car was running. He was an older guy and there must have been hundreds of used carburetors in his shop. He has multiple adapter plates to put the carburetors on his test block to test run his repairs. He figures about 2 weeks and I will have it back. He figures the compression is a factor and that old gas may be a bigger issue. I do have good spark! was holding a plug wire, while when my son turned on the key. Yep got shocked. My plans now will pull the head. Check head to make sure not warped. Add cleaner to each cylinder and valves. Check that all are moving. Put head back on check compression. If good ,try to start with fresh fuel. see what happens. If will not start. Go for the rings.
That sounds like a solid plan of attack - please keep us updated as to what you find and if you get it resolved!
