Oil Filters (Issues) What Brand do you like?

Hi Jim,
In general, bypass filters have the most restrictive media and catch the smallest particles. Shunt filters are next, and full-flow filters have the largest media size. With paper element filters the paper is directional- it is designed to work only in one direction. Flowing oil backwards through it can result in the filter media shedding particles into your oil.

Thanks Brent!

So, if I understand this... there isn't an actual "By Pass Valve" in the filter... but the difference in the filters themselves is the "MEDIA or filter material" they use for the oil to flow through the filter.

So when buying a new filter and I use 10W 30 should I buy a FULL FLOW? or By-Pass filter? The ONLY company that I saw advertise a SHUNT filter is Hastings.

With the Shunt in my car, some oil goes to the engine "unfiltered" but in essence it ALL will get filtered at some point. A Shunt filter seems to be the "Middle of the Road" filter. And like you mentioned above, the oil today is much better with the multi viscosity.

Great information!!

Tim,

I have an EXCEL spread sheet that shows DeSoto oil filters during their entire production, and includes the optional filter cannister part numbers. That might be something to post somewhere....

Your spreadsheet would be a great addition to the FAQ forum! Or Technical Articles...

Gents,

I suppose I will have to write that technical article for the Adventures magazine. I hesitate to write these sorts of things, because I don't want to seem arrogant or like a "know-it-all". That tends to happen anytime I start talking about a subject where there is a lot of "Urban Legend" information. There are a lot of urban legends out there on oil and filters.

Still I think the club members need to have some of the basics of the history of oil refining and the effect on oil filter design available to them. DeSoto folks are luckier than most, because virtually every post-war car has a full-flow filter available for it that is authentic period MoPar, relatively easy to install, and shouldn't cost points in a judged show.

To write that though, I will need information on some cars that I'm not real familiar with- mostly the 1955-1957 V-8's. Does anyone have one of those with the engine disassembled for rebuild who can post a photo of the oil filter adaptor boss on the engine? I'd like to verify that the O-ring grooves were still there on those cars.

Just found a couple pictures... check your other post. I think they may be what you're looking for? The one shows better than the other picture.

"But from 1952 through 1954 DeSoto offered a full-flow cannister assembly as a dealer installed option, which had an integral pressure relief valve and used a different element. When I rebuilt my engine in 2015, I found one of those and installed it in place of the shunt type assembly."

Found this on eBaY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-NOS-Oil- ... p~&vxp=mtr

Mark,

That is a good find! Before you put that on, look to make sure you have three holes not just two, and make sure you have the O-Ring grooves otherwise that filter may not work right.

If you can, send me a photo of that mounting pad on your 1955. Jim sent me a photo of his 56, and it did not have the bleed hole or the O-Ring grooves. My theory is that the bleed hole and grooves were removed in 1956 when the block casting was revised for the raised deck, but I don't know that for sure. I think you will still be O.K., I have seen literature that says that filter was offered for the 1955 model.

By the way the cartridge for that filter is: Fram;CH192PL, Purolator; L40082, WIX; 51062, NAPA;1062, Baldwin; P60, Fleetgard; LF559, Hastings; LF309.

I am working on an article about DeSoto oil filters for the Adventures magazine, and your info will help me a lot. Thanks!

Hey Brent,

I'm not planning to buy that filter for my '55, at least not yet. I usually change oil in the spring so won't be able to take a photo of the filter base until then. Sorry I could not provide sooner.

Regardless, looking forward to your article.

Mark

Hello Brent,

My local NAPA store is having a sale on NAPA Gold oil filters. My '55 has the original canister style filter housing on the RH side of the block. NAPA uses p/n's 1080 and 1071 to cross to these Wix p/n's:

The 51071 is a FULL FLOW filter

The 51080 is a BY-PASS filter

Still somewhat confused on what filter I should be using, the 1080 or the 1071. I've been using the 1080 and it's equivalent from other suppliers for years. Thanks for your advice.

Mark

Hey Brent,

I re-read all your posts (again) and it appears the by-pass filter is correct for my '55. I searched the NAPA website for both the 1071 full flow and 1080 by-pass filters. Below are specs on each. Same dimensions but the by-pass media is described as "Enhanced Cellulose" while the full-flow filter media is simply "Cellulose". Also, the by-pass has a lower micron rating. According to the Google machine, the higher the micron rating the larger the holes in the filter media. Here are the specs as copied from NAPA:

Product Specifications
Part Number: 1071
UPC Number: 765809135994
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Cellulose
Height: 4.218 (107)*
Outer Diameter: 3.367 (86)*
Inside Diameter Top: 0.578 (15)*
Inside Diameter Bottom: 0.703 (18)*
Nominal Micron Rating: 25
( )* denotes metric

Product Specifications
Part Number: 1080
UPC Number: 765809136045
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: By-Pass
Media: Enhanced Cellulose
Height: 4.218 (107)*
Outer Diameter: 3.367 (86)*
Inside Diameter Top: 0.578 (15)*
Inside Diameter Bottom: 0.703 (18)*
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
( )* denotes metric

Hi Mark,

The NAPA filters are made by WIX, in fact you might notice that the NAPA P/N is the same as the WIX number less the first WIX digit, usually a 5. Although the filters are made in the U.S., WIX is owned by Mann and Hummel, a German company who also owns the Purolator brand.

That particular filter, the 1071, is supposed to have the lower ID sized to fit over the stamped "Filter-Guide" on the bottom of the base. When the filter is fit over that, the smaller ID at the top should fit closer to the center stud and hold the filter in place while bolting on the cover. In many cases, I have seen the stamped "filter guide" removed from the bottom of the filter base. This makes it difficult to position the filter in place while you bolt it on. Not sure why those were removed, but the specs for the Fram and Fleetgard filters might give a clue- they both list the same filter for the bypass and shunt applications, and call out a common top and lower diameter of .703-.71. That probably wouldn't fit over the guide.

Interestingly, when I checked the online specs for the WIX branded version, 51071, they call it a shunt filter.

I don't like those shunt filters partly because they don't filter all the oil, but partly because the elements made for them are a fit compromise for the more common industrial applications like Clark lift trucks that use a Hercules engine, and the same filter housing as the dealer option used on the earlier DeSoto six.

You might want to put a watch out on that filter on ebay. If you find one under $100, buy it. You can always resell it if you find it doesn't work. There are a limited number of those NOS units out there.

The full flow filter requires some internal modifications to the oiling system. Just using a full flow element or installing a full flow canister does not convert the engine to full flow oil filtration. see link
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-tool ... hemi/30083

Yes, the '55 uses 5 + 1 quarts, and the '56 is 4 + 1 qt.

Have a nice day
Steve