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Still plugging away on my 32 SC Custom. At the upholsterer now. I am thinking of re-doing the dash and window frames and I am looking for feedback on which technology to choose and service providers. I am in Eastern Tennessee. What I understand is there are at least 3 technologies:
1. Artist and brush
2. silkscreen using patterned cloth and roller to transfer
3. Hydrographics (a newer technology using a floating film to wrap the object and adhere to it.)
I am interested in any feedback folks have on the costs and quality and providers. I have a quote from Georgia Hydrographics of $1000 for the whole kit - all 7 window frames and the dash- think thats the cheapest. Does anyone have experience with this method? Its used mainly for metal gunstocks to add camo or woodgrain. I will try to post progress photos of current state of car if I can remember how.
Lynn,
Looks like you are making great progress! Looks like it will be a real beauty! Keep up the good work and posting photos of your work.
Mark
Lynn,
It looks like you are putting your car together for a great looking original type
show car. Consequently , I believe it warrants an original type looking wood grain.
I've had a couple of jobs done for me by a professional wood graining artist. I was very pleased.
For what it's worth, here's how to contact him if you're interested.
His name is Lauren Mately EMAIL: fixold@hotmail.com
PHONE: 253-350-3604. He's located in Arizona.
I've known him for years.
Kent Jaquith
Lynn,
I forgot to ask, but you remembered how to attach three photos of you car.
Can you pass that information to me, as I would like to do likewise, but fear the wrath of the computer Gods will be my down fall. Computer literate, I'M NOT!
PS. I restore/rebuild vacuum windshield wiper motors and have been doing them for 35 years. I've done thousands of your type of wiper motor. Do you have your original wiper motors? If not, I might be able to come up with some. Let me know. You can contact me me at: qajk38@bendbroadband.com
Ph. 541-923-4319
Thanks,Kent Jaquith
A few more Photos.One is of a test drive working on mechanicals before painting, and one of interior as original, and another of the rear as original. Yes I am going to do as close to original as possible. Its being upholstered now to original design and cloth (or as close as humanly possible). Exterior is to original scheme of Jack Pine Gray with Gloucester gray fenders and highlights- my wife says army green over darker army green.. I like it anyway, its true to the time.
Posting photos works for me this way:
1. open the new message or reply dialog
2. Go to the add file/attachment box and hit attach file- you will then need to navigate to your repository of pictures and select one to post, and hit "open"
3. Then go back to the posting dialog and hit "preview" - it will load the file and give you another unused "attach File" box you can use to repeat the process and add another picture.
4. Once you've added the pictures and typed whatever you want for verbage you can then Submit It or Preview again to double check.
This is probably not the slickest or quickest way, but it got the pictures on the site a couple times!
Kent,
As to the Vacuum motor rebuilds- Both were frozen up, had to disassemble, clean, and then lubed with ATF, and reassembled. It seems one motor works great, the other moves on the first stroke, but won't release and go back. So I swapped the little spring and retaining piece that connects to the little valving pin that moves to uncover or cover the holes, and of course the problem moved to the other motor, Examined these tiny parts under a magnifying glass and can see no difference. I will try a local guy first who has buckets of Trico Model A parts to see if just swapping in another pin, bracket, or spring will fix it. If I get stuck I'll reach out to a higher power! Thanks!
Lynn,
Have you ever had hemorrhoids? If you have and attempted to operated on them yourself, then you know it's a pain in the ass and you will never be satisfied with the results.
Basically that's what you are trying to do with your after market wiper motors. The KSB 600 and 600-1 are replacement wiper motors and and not correct for your car. Trico made these to fit many different years and makes.
Putting ATF in them is not the thing to do and will only provide you with a short time operation. By changing pieces or taking old pieces from Model A wiper motors is not the thing to do. I believe if I go through my KSB wiper motors I can come up with correct ones for your 32. The KSB 600s have the wound wire on'off handles and plastic knobs which are not correct for your car.
When I rebuild them, I first check to see if they are warped and have any irregularities on the surfaces. I resurface all areas that have moving parts against them. I put in all new paddle seals and gaskets and the correct valves and valve kickers and other parts that are correct for the wiper motor and the car they fit. Messing around with miscellaneous parts really is not the answer.
Believe me.
When I finish with them they will run better than new and will operate for many years to come. I guarantee my work. I bench test them with different amounts of vacuum to see if they will run from slow to fast, with NO vacuum leaks. Only the slightest vacuum leak will cause it to run poorly.
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but just to let you know these vacuum wiper motors are precision made units that require a good amount of expertise to make them work properly.
Email me and I can probably get a picture of the right wipers and email it back to you. My email is : qajk38@bendbroadband.com.
I'll be unable to do so on this site until I can get comfortable with attaching pictures on it. Thanks for the information on attaching pictures. I'll get around to giving it a try when I get the time.
My dad had a 32 SC which was a good car, but it was overworked in its life time.
During the war he traded up for A 38 Chrysler Imperial.
I'll be glad to help you out any time. I'm a problem solver.
PS. I'm also a surgeon and do hemorrhoids and brains.
Kent Jaquith
PH: 541-923-4319 Redmond, Oregon
Tim Bowers owns Stellar Restorations and has quite the reputation for high-end restorations; he's well known for accuracy in his work. He's also on the NDC Board of Trustees. Link below is from his website:
http://www.stellarrestorations.com/serv ... aining.php
Can the woodgrain affect be done using an airbrush?
Dear Lynn,
I just mis-sent an email to Larry Banner about his 32 , which was meant for you.
You can go and see the emai I sent him by mistake.
Basically it boils down to this.
I will be honored to rebuild you wiper motors at NO CHARGE. Really, I would very much like to do that for you. I can remember the 32 SC that my dad had, which holds a dear spot in my memory bank.
You have the correct spacers on your motors and am wondering if you have the original switch on it as well. I did find one for a RH motor, but have yet to find one for the LH side.
So Lynn, email me if you would let me do this for you. I would like to be part of your restoration Again, this a freebe for you. Honest]No Charge!
Kent Jaquith
541-923-4319
Here's another email for me: qajk38@bendbroadband.com
PS. Thanks for your information on posting pictures on this site. I'll give the all american try when I get caught up. I think of you type my name into the internet, on wiper motor rebuilding, you might find out a little more about me.
Every once in a while somebody really surprises you. Kent Jacquith commented on this board about rebuilding the vacuum motors from my 32. I gave an acquaintance a shot at rebuilding, but he couldn't get it done, so I called Kent. He offered to rebuild them for free, and I sent them to Oregon. Less than a week later he called to tell me he was done with them, and in the discussion he added immensely to my knowledge base on vacuum wiper motors, and told me a great story about Lawrence Welk. So if you need a motor rebuilt or the odd part located call Kent :
Clean-Sweep Windshield wiper motor service, 541-923-4319!
Update on the 32- still in the upholstery shop. My friends at SMS have really got problems. They don't know carpet binding from windlace, brown from gray, and cant even ship the same part twice in a row without screwing it up. Done with them- their delays cost me the whole summer.
Found a local guy to try the woodgrain, strategy is to keep as much of the original possible. Doing test parts now. If it comes out ok he'll do the whole thing. I did discover that a company is out there called Grain-It. They supply kits to do woodgraining using the same techniques as they did back in the day, and claim to have the correct colors and patterns for 99% of the cars made since the process was introduced. Kits are about $500. If I have to strip and re-do all of mine, I think that's the way I'll go.
P.S> I really enjoyed my first De Soto convention, and meeting all the nice De Soto De votees.
I am curious about the end results of the woodgraining experience?
Still in progress. Stripped some of the sills, and primed. Trying to get the right combo of base coat and woodgrain color to match original. I will do some photos this weekend. Still seems like its not brain surgery just takes some time and patience to master the techniques.
Some Pictures of the process,
1. The dash -before- notice the scratches,
2. two pieces re-done- 1 after graining, and the other after clear coating,
3. The tools- the silkscreen pattern, the roller, and spreader to load the ink into the pattern
4. the dash base coated
More pix and explanation.
1. The dash and a door edge/sill after graining, before clear coat. A little washed out in the sunlight..which is the best way to cure the graining ink.
Somehow I lost the "Story" to the etherworld, so I will try to re-do it.
I originally thought I'd touch up and put new clear coat on most of the pieces, and the dash.( Stripping only the worst ones.) After trials to find the right color combination, the match was so good and the process so easy, I did all of them over completely- and the dash. I had a local guy quote me $1500 just to do the dash...Figured it was worth a try and it was.
So for me I have about $500 in materials into it- mostly for the screen and the rollers. Thats still a real bargain compared to having it done.
So what did I learn?
1. Its not that hard if you have painting or finishing experience
2. The paints to match your pieces can be matched from any of the pieces that have good original color on the back. Its $30 a can for the spray cans from Grain-it.
3. If you buy the paint from the supplier, get the color swatch before ordering anything. They think they know more than they do about the colors for particular cars.
4. When I examined my original dash, which I thought was beautiful- I realized that whoever did the original woodgraining was pretty sloppy! It still looked great, but after a little practice, I realized I could do a job = or > than the original, because I had time to focus on it.
So after letting this dry a day- I will clear coat, wet sand and buff out the rest of the set, ready for re-installation.
