Perhaps a New Desoto ...

James and All

I like Towing Inquires.

1. No matter where you go --- the max weight to tow a loaded trailer ( or item )
that has No Brakes is 999 Pounds.

*
The Frame for a S-11 or C-38 is Spec'd For A Max of 3500 Pounds.
*

1a. A vehicle that is towing has a shorter stopping distance if the towed item
has working brakes - than a same vehicle w/o towing any thing.

2. Every Trailer Tire made by every maker and then sold by every vendor has a Max Speed Rating of 65 MPH.

***
The Max Towing Speed in California is 55 MPH on any Free Hwy
***

Look at a movie that was released in 1949 ( http://www.tcm.com/mediaroom/video/2402 ... ceros.html ) and you will see your favorite shaped of car pulling a RV Travel Trailer full of men.

3. The 1956 De Soto Frame is also spec'd for Towing 3500 Pounds no matter which trim level or shape the roof line is.

Number one and number two of above apply to all vehicles of 1956 too.

The main advantage of 1956 is The 12 Volt System.

Rodger & Gabby
COS

James,

I'm not expert on trailers or towing. I don't own a trailer or a suitable tow vehicle. However, If I were you and was starting from a clean slate I would focus on a '58 or '59 DeSoto for several reasons:

1) Torsion bar front suspension for better handling
2) Full frame construction (unibody construction began in 1960).
3) Wedge head engines. Although the hemi in my '55 has never failed me on the highway I have always thought that if I were stranded in need of a part it would be much easier for a local parts store to find parts for a MoPar wedge head engine than for the old hemi.
4) Torqueflite transmission. The '56 was available only with the two-speed Powerflite automatic. The Torqueflite was available in '57 and most '58's and '59's came so equipped.

Good luck with whatever you decide. Hope to see you in Louisville with your trailer in tow!

Mark

My '56 Fireflite Sportsman has a vintage tow package. If you go with a '55 or '56 I'd recommend the Fireflite because it has a transmission cooler.

I can see that second gear on the Torqueflite would come in handy while towing.

Good Luck
Steve

This is a 'Shout Out" to long time Members:

Does anyone remember a Member by the name of
Frankie Schmitz from Gainsville,TX ?

If I recall..............he won both long distance awards, at the National Convention, for driving a car, and towing a car.

He towed a Desoto, with a Desoto.

I think the Convention was in Michigan, or Indiana.

It was many years ago.

See what people miss, by not attending?

He was one of a kind !

Mark Waite

James,

I like your idea of another car much better than modifying your existing Suburban and a 56 is a great choice. I know you are into upgrades so here's my 2 cents.
1. Fireflite so you'll have a 4 bbl.
2. Upgrade front brakes to disc plus dual M/C.
3. Keep the hemi, since well, it's a hemi.
4. Swap in an A500 or A518 TF. That way you'll have od.
5. Upgrade to alternator.
6. Inspect the rear frame rails. They are known to rust. I'd reinforce them.
7. Swap out the rear axle for a B or C body 8 3/4 from the 60's or 70's. Same bolt pattern without the press on drums. New parts readily available. Easy to change the gear ratio.

James,
If you would consider turning the Sub into a "Resto-Rod", you may want to check out the possibility of using a Dakota pick up chassis and running gear. I'd have to recheck, but I believe that the crewcab/short bed wheelbase is very close to that of the Subs.
I did this on my 47/2 Custom Coupe using a '98 Dakota Reg Cab/Long Bed including the 3.9 V6 and 5 speed.
Just think, you could have a HEMI!

Just Sayin'

Geoff

As I try to come up with a way to get enough power to use the 1948 Desoto Suburban to travel the US with a trailer...I am coming to the conclusion that unless I want to really chop up the car and put a clip under it and all that...that perhaps I should just go out and buy something else for that particular mission.

To that end. I am thinking of a 1956 Desoto 4-door hardtop.

Can some of the folks into the mid-1950's cars give me a primer on the differences between the Firedome and the Fireflite models for 1956?

In particular:
1. Are the frames as strong and thick as the 1940's models and as such would not bend when towing?
2. As far as I can tell they both used the same engine with different carburation. Was there valve-cam-exhaust or other engine differences as well?
3. Which transmissions were offered?
4. Any major interior differences like bench vs. bucket seats?
5. Power steering, Power Brakes, Air Conditioning?

Also, to anyone who owns a 1956, tell me why I would NOT want to use one of these for extensive traveling with a big trailer around the USA.

Thanks all,

James

The 56 frame is stronger than most cars today as long as it is not rusted out. The biggest concern traveling would be parts in the event or a break down. water pumps and gaskets are not stocked items for jobbers. It way take a week or longer to get a needed part! Rich in Florida

I'm looking to sell my 1955 Desoto, V-8 S22 engine, 4-door not a hardtop, blue and white color, no a/c, runs good and body is in great shape, new interior, 80,100 miles, all gauges work, see photo on PG 17, in Liberty, MO. Call or text: 816-462-7048.

Hi All,

Been busy.

After a month of discussions with my wife...usually while heading to our place in the country an hour plus from San Francisco and while driving the 1947 Desoto...

My wife tells me she likes traveling in the '47 and wants me to make it travel worthy, but, not cutting it up into a retro-rod.

They say real creativity is operating within constraints. So, I need to figure out a way to make a 1947 Desoto travel around the USA possibly while pulling a trailer and all the while keeping it as stock as I can.

To that end, the following is a list of things I have come up with.

1. Add to the rear, as I have already done on the front years ago, rear disc brakes.
2. Like I did on the '49, add a Midland-Ross remote power brake booster. (which by the way works real well, almost too well.)
3. Change the transmission to a 1963-1964 torqueflite with the rear pump and push button operation.
4. Take a engine and create-modify it for computerized fuel injection so that mountain climbing - altitude issues will automatically adjust and no wait start up driving.
5. Turbo Charge, about 4 to 6 pound of boost, to help with the low volumetric efficiency of a flathead.
6. Cut the stock steering column and add the new electric power assist. (everything will be changed over to 12 volt for this and the EFI)
7. Add air-conditioning.
8. Add trailer hitch.
9. Add new commercial (I have the factory spring rates and loads for both stock and commercial springs) springs front and rear.
10. Pull my hair out!

***********
That is the plan. I will start thinking of working on this next spring (2015). Thoughts?

James