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Maybe this sad story can help someone.
In reviving my 32 Sedan, I first did the brakes so it could stop. Then started on making it go. Next the fuel tank was removed- it was intact but full of crud, rust, etc. Cleaned up sender/float- it Works! Then put some chains in tank and rattled it round to knock loose rust off of it. Cleaned it out- vacuumed it. Then did the kit for etching and then coating the tank. Kit instructions said let it dry 24 hours. I let it dry for 3 days. I re-installed it into an all original system- original lines, original pump, no fuel filter other than the bowl screen.
Then the fun of turning it over and starting it began. I lubed the cylinder heads overnight w WD40, checked oil, checked that clutch plate was free, checked water level. It turned over after setting since 88!
And after using a hand vacuum pump to get fuel from the tank to the fuel pump, it started right up! All the systems seemed intact, ie oil pressure, water circulation, temp gauges. So I shut down and did a thorough clean of water system with a cleaning product. Same for engine oil. Drained and replaced all of that and started to run it for longer periods.
Here's where the misadventure started....After warming up, it would start to smoke a lot. A lot. Really a lot.
So I suspected oil being burnt, because thats what it smelled like. Didn't have the sweet smell of antifreeze. So we thought maybe it was the oil additive/cleanser still working its way out. But kept smoking after extended run time. So now began exploring the engine thinking valves, head gasket, rings stuck- various potential causes of smoking. Took the head off and replaced head gasket. Cylinders looked great - pistons too. Checked valve condition/clearances- right on the money. Re-assembled and started again. Same thing - smoking after warming up. Took exhaust off and heated it with heat gun- when it got hot it started smoking like crazy! Thought that maybe the gunk, residue from engine cleaning had poured into the exhaust manifold, and just need to bake out. Let the heat gun bake it for an hour, and it cleared up. Re-assembled and started again. Same thing, smoked like crazy after warming up. Only now noticed it had oily residue in the carburetor bowl, and seemed to have trouble supplying fuel. Took the carb off, and cleaned it out- full of oily residue. So rebuilt the fuel pump- tested outside car and pumped great. Installed pump and it didn't pump butkus. Tried a jug of gasoline held over the carb with hose to intake end to bypass the pump- ran like a champ! So decided to put electric fuel pump on.
Put a 1-7psi 6v pump on, with an inline filter in front of it. Vehicle ran very rough and would die out. Fuel filter full of oily residue.
So now I knew source of original problem- the coating in the gas tank had apparently pooled in some spots, and never cured fully, so when stirred up it would periodically dump to the fuel system and when it got through the engine it would smoke like crazy. Gunked up the carb and everythng after. So I flushed the tank dozens of times until it was completely clear. Then it would start fine, but kept running rough. Rebuilt the carb, and put a disc type pressure regulator(Mr Gasket) before the carb, with range of 1-4psi. Same result running rough- talked to the Carburetor King in Eldon, MO(THANK YOU VERY MUCH). When he looked it up, found the carb installed was Carter 6M, from a 49 Dodge truck 237, not the original Carter 6B for a 217. Then when he heard about the regulator he said throw it away- it's useless. He was right. I checked fuel pressure with a gauge, and after the regulator it measured 7 psi, no matter what the regulator was set to. Got a Holley regulator 1-4psi and installed it.
And now for the happy ending. It runs great! No smoke! So this sad saga goes back to the tank. Don't use too much of the coating, and be sure it is thoroughly dry! The original fuel pump is probably fine, but for now I'm going to use the electric with the regulator.
So if there are any amateurs like me out there, maybe there was something useful in this tortured tale!
Lynn,
Sorry to read about all of the trouble you had, but glad to hear that you got the problem resolved and that the car is now running fine. You have a lot more patience, and definitely a lot more skill than I have when it comes to problems like these.
Have you thought about submitting this as an article for the NDC's magazine? And if you could add some photos, that would be great! Just send it to desotoadventures@gmail.com.
Bill
What brand of sealant did you use?
Thanks
Steve
Steve- Sealant was "Bill Hirsch". I guess you need to really let it drain any excess. I have attached photos of 1. the bad regulator mounted, 2. the filter and pump 3. the bad regulator 4. the good regulator mounted.
The mounted regulator is the Holley(the good one)- mounted to the Carter B&B 6M1 Carb.
I've had good and bad results with fuel tank sealants. The only brand I use now is sold by POR-15. I've used that on many motor cycle tanks with great success. Two things, the tank must be really clean and you got to make sure it is thoroughly cured before use.
I recommend you pull your tank and send it to gas tank renew. They will cut it open, blast it, repair it, and galvanize it.
Good Luck
Steve
Steve,
It turns out you're advice was spot on. Emptied the tank and inspected- It was patchy and splotchy. Pulled the tank and cleaned with Nitric Acid 3 times, and finally got all the pink coating out. The Por-15 silver was put in and did a great job, cured properly. (I also used the Por-15 black on the underbody- worked great!)
Next I ran a new gas line, and reconnected the original fuel pump. After struggling to find an air leak (loose fitting) eventually all worked out and it is now running with the original equipment and working like a champ.
Now she is in the paint shop- pictures soon.
Who knows-
Steve, about how much would I expect to pay to have "gas tank renew" clean up my tank - a 53 DeSoto. It lived its 1st 40 years in CT but had only 24000 on it so it may not have been badly exposed. But does "gas tank renew" price on the condition or is it more size, age, or make/model? Or in other words do they provide a price before you ship it to them? Where are they and do you have any contact info? Thank you for sharing. It sounds like the way to go.
I really do not want to put any coatings in my tank. I just do not trust them to hold up over time like my 60 year old galvanized tank has. It does not leak but I do not know what will happen when I disturb it. And I think I need to disturb it with alcohol in the fuel now.
Lynn: Glad to hear that it worked for you!
Paul: If you're having problems, pull the sending unit out of the tank and look in there with an explosion proof flash-light. Oh, put your cigarette out first and have a buddy with a large fire extinguisher standing by. You can look around inside the tank with a mirror a see what's happening in there. If your fuel filters are filling up with rust, you could probably skip the inspection and call these guys.
Good Luck
Steve