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See, there's a new version of the story..... "I know of a guy that got his off with a front wheel drive puller and a propane torch..."
Those creative problem solving skills will do you well as you continue....
It's supposed to be fun!
1949 De Soto Custom Convertible (project)
Well those are the kind of stories I was lookin for in this thread! Too much by the book work makes you forget the simple ways. I should be the director of nonsense fixes lol That wasnt my first rodeo with a quick easy way out... Like the time my carb on the MG kept sticking open so I put two higher tension springs on the throttle level on the carb. Never had the problem again!
But Now I brought something to the table for this topic! Glad I could help lol
Now once the 4th comes around, I should be tryin to take my car around the block. With no taillights, windows, mirrors, plates, or a battery. lol !
Yes
Chris
Good for you! I was wrong again! ....but I have seen several other folks ruin drums by not using the correct tool. As an example, had you used the large jaw puller, I can guarantee you that the drum would be ruined. Please post a picture of the tool you used to get it off.
As far as being a cash strapped DeSoto owner, many of have been there and some of us are there again. You say you have several more cars? Maybe you could sell a couple of them to fund your best car, which is, of course, the DeSoto.
Have a nice day
Steve
Well with those Jaws I got it to move 1/8th of an inch, but it was just THAT stuck on there. So I got one of these out of my collection.
But one of my other cars is that yellow Opel Kadett in the background of the photo, and thats going to be my ladys car because that one has seatbelts in it. The other one sits in the backyard, and its a $15,000 long bed drag truck, which my dad controls because he built it lol and then the forth car has no body... lol its just a bunch of parts on my shop floor.
Chris, I have a 53 but the 50 should have it in about the same place. There should be an access hole in the floor and it is not far from the gas pedal. The nut usually is square. The master cylinder should have brake lines going to it - about 3/16" dia steel lines. You may as well familiarize yourself with it because at a minimum it probably should be cleaned.
Awesome Thanks! But the whole brake system has already been cleaned up and stuff. The PO did it all, because this wheel cylinder was rebuilt already, just done wrong because it was not sanded inside, and the little holes for the fluid to flow had some serious burrs on them so I sanded it up and im rebuilding it again, and then im gonna bleed the whole system and move onto aquiring the tailights and then a battery.
Chris, you say you need to get a battery. Here is a couple of things about the battery you may or may not know being new to the world of DeSoto. The system is six volts (you probably knew that) and is positive ground. A common mistake is to use modern thin cables and you need heavy cables for a six volt system. If the cables are not heavy enough for the higher amperage of the six volts the starter will not spin as it should especially when the engine is warmed up. Les
Oh I knew it was lol I already spoke with Rodger about that already lol but I found a battery for $115 from Discover Classic Cars out here in Scottsdale... I wish I could find a used one or something on my budget.
Chris, you can buy a battery for about half that at a farm supply or parts store. It won't be original equipment type but if the car is going to be a driver and not a show car it won't make a lot of differance.
From where? I just pulled up on google, and the cheapest battery thats not for a golf cart is $220. Maybe im just looking in the wrong place??
Chris, O'reilly auto parts and Autozone have them for about $80. NAPA has them couldn't find a price. Check with any local farm supply store most of them have them. Maybe a little more than half of $115. I don't remember what I paid for mine at a local farm supply but I think it was less than $80.
Can you tell me what to tell them?? Because the battery they have for my is is the Duralast Industrial and is $180 and then they have a Rep Top Optima for VDP....
Chris, O'Reilly looks like a better deal. They have a 6 volt Super Start 770 cold cranking amps for $79.99 Autozone Duralast has 660 cca 6 volt for about the same price. I just went to their on line sites and got those prices. I would go to their sites on line, get the info and show your local store what you found.
Found it. Part number 1J, $84.99 + $12 Core charge.
