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I'm adding power steering to my 47 Desoto. I mounted a reconditioned power steering gearbox onto the frame and modified the steering column. Now I need to reconfigure the pulleys and belts to run the power steering pump as well as the alternator.
I need double groove pulleys for the crankshaft and water pump. I tried the classifieds, but didn't see how to add an ad.
The early 50s Chryslers and DeSotos with power steering have such pulleys. The 6-cylinder versions should fit. I don't know about the 8-cylinder versions.
I'm conducting a search for such pulleys. If anyone had part numbers, that would help.
These pulleys are 6-inch diameter.
The crankshaft pulley has a 2-1/4" center hole and six bolt holes, the TDC one being 5 degrees off center. The of the pulley is recessed about 1/4” at the crankshaft hub, and the damper hub extends in against the pulley hub.
The water pump pulley has 1-1/8" center hole, 4 bolt holes, and about 1-3/4" offset.
Donald Smith 248.546.5711 thesmiths48072@yahoo.com
Donald
The 1952'ish to 1954 Windsor Series from Chrysler and Flat Six Powered
De Soto's used the same Double Grooved Pulley's on The Crank Shaft -
The Water Pump and The Generator.
The Generator has The Power Steering Pump attached to its rear body
( just as the V8 used units ).
All Flat Head Six Engines with this option have a "Bent Oil Filler Tube" vs
the straight tube.
At one time I thought about changing our S-11's Steering to "Power
Steering" and stopped when I found out the modifying of the steering
unit and then trying to locate something that was rare when new option
and is close to impossible to find now.
Rodger & Gabby
FltSgt@outlook.com
I gave up the quest for double pulleys, even after-market. I'm adding a single pulley between the crankshaft and the original pulley and damper.
The new pulley is billet aluminum, Spectre 4389, re-drilled for the Mopar bolt spacing, and with the center hole enlarged to fit over the hub. This goes dish-side over the hub, on studs, adding 1/4 inch to the assembly. Then the six nuts, which act as 1/4-inch spacers. Then the original pulley and damper. I'll hold them on with coupling nuts, which I had bought for a previous arrangement. That will make the nuts easier to reach.
The extra half inch became a killer for replacing the belts. So I cut out the scoop-shape in the crossmember and fabricated a filler that makes more room.
I'm shimming the water pump pulley out a half-inch. That and the original crank pulley will run the alternator. The new pulley at the crankshaft will run the power steering pump. I still have to fabricate brackets for the alternator and power steering pump.
I have already modified the steering column and installed the power steering gearbox, U-joints and shaft. The steering column has a commutator-type contact for the horn grounding wire, which had run down the length of the steering shaft and out the bottom of the steering gear.
I'm giving myself plenty of time to get this done and road-tested before the Convention. Then I'll show off tight parking maneuvers and U-turns.
I discovered that the crankshaft pulley is a quarter-inch more forward than the water pump pulley. So I flipped the crankshaft pulley, after wallowing out the offset hole. That moved the pulley a quarter inch back, inline with the water pump pulley. I put the alternator pulley in line with those pulleys.
I installed six studs at the crank flange, instead of bolts. That was to make it easier to hang the pulleys in place. I thread-locked the studs into place, and distorted the threads on the backside of the studs.
After the flipped pulley, I installed nuts on the studs (as spacers) and then the billet pulley, flush side to the nuts. Then the damper, and lock washers and nuts.
This put the power steering belt between the fan and the alternator-water pump belt. I shimmed the fan out a half-inch. With the PS pump aligned carefully and secured, the fan just misses the pump pulley. The belt connects only the billet pulley at the crankshaft and the PS pump pulley. Belt adjustment is vertical,, at the PS pump bracket.
I moved the radiator forward a half-inch, after trimming the flanges to fit within the channel frame. Within the channel frame there are bosses, or whatever, threaded for the fender bolts. The bosses have flat spots on one side, as if Walter P. intended to put the radiator against them.
The radiator hangs on the original bolts. I added allen head setscrews with locknuts to push the radiator forward against the threaded bosses. I reused the current hoses, no problem.
The power steering works. Sweet!
