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Despite the many pitfalls my Desoto has, it has become my favorite car ever. I haven't yet bought a shop manual as I spent my last penny on the car and the new fuel pump. I have a few questions about it that I hope you all can help with until I get the manual.
First, the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when the car isn't running, shouldn't it have some resistance? Second, where does one put brake fluid in? Does it go into the top of the master cylinder? Third, what is the contraption above the master cylinder that looks like an accordion? Is it some sort of a booster? Also, the car has a power cord that goes to a cylinder on the bottom of some heater hoses on the passenger, what is its purpose? (Don't worry, I'm only assessing the situation, not attempting to drive it).
Please forgive me for being such an ignorant Desoto owner, I have owned and worked on other older cars including a '61 Comet, '68 T-Bird, '48 Kaiser, and '54 Dodge truck but as I said, this one is my favorite despite the non-existent floorpans and the broken frame...thanks in advance for any and all advice!
Lisa; I will let those more familiar with the 59 answer your brake question. But, having lived in Mich. all my life I think I know what the thing with the power cord is. It sounds like a heater that you plug in to an outlet that heats and circulates the engine coolant at night so your car will start easily in the morning when the temperature gets down to about -15. Fairly common up here in the frozen North but those that live in the South probably have no idea what I am talking about.
Les, I was wondering if that's what it was. My mom had a couple installed on her cars and I always thought it was something that screwed into the engine block. I grew up in Upstate NY so I know all about cold starting conditions! Thanks for the insight!
The brakes should have some resistance
Fluid goes in the master cylinder which doesn't look like it holds much
The accordion is your power brake booster
FYI the service information for a 59 consists of the 1958 shop manual along with a 96 page supplement. The supplement is actually a Service Bulletin rather than the traditional supplement. Originals show up on eBay now and then; different versions (copies) tend to show up more often
In your search for parts, many of the basic parts can be obtained at your local parts store if you have a willing person to do the searching; a reminder that many of the Firesweep items are not interchangeable with your Firedome. Even the owner's manuals are different!
BTW-where in upstate NY are you from?
Thanks Bob. Looks like I have to take the booster off the fill the master cylinder then? I will look into the appropriate manual as soon as I have more cash. I am originally from Cincinnatus, NY which is near Syracuse and Binghamton but currently live in Illinois.
You don't have to remove the booster to fill the master cylinder (MC.) Take a 7/16 open end wrench to the top of the M/C and unscrew it counter clockwise. The bad news is that filling it up won't fix the problem.
If it has been sitting, you need the full brake job. That is brake lines, hoses, M/C, wheel cylinder X 6 and possibly brake shoes.
How long has the car been sitting? Where has it been sitting?
I'm here to help.
Have a nice day
Steve
Steve, the car has been sitting since the frame broke but I'm not sure how long that has been. I was told that the previous owner said it was started not too long ago but my guess is that it hadn't been driven in some time.
It appears that it spent its life outside as the vinyl on the dash had melted, the armrest on the driver's side has black stuff bubbling out of it, and the plastic is either missing or falling off of the steering wheel.
As for a brake job, I just did that on the '48 Kaiser I am working on, but 6 wheel cylinders? Wow! This just keeps getting more interesting. I tried to start it last night but to no avail, the carb was letting too much fuel in, the plugs got wet then it refused to fire. I'll get new plugs today and give it another try.
Thanks for the advice and the help, I'm going to need it.
Sounds like an extreme project 
Change the condenser and file the points (or new points) and gap them to .018" Use an AL-111 condenser even though it calls for something else. Have your fire extinguisher handy.
Good Luck
Steve
Steve, I think that this should keep me busy for a while. I did manage to get it started tonight after cleaning and sanding the plugs. It runs rough but less so than when I first started it. The backfiring scared me but there was no need for the fire extinguisher. I am going to do a tune up on it very soon with the condenser, point gap and filing, etc. What spark plug do you recommend? It has the Champions in it now.
First order of business is change the oil, any idea what weight and how much I should put in? I used to own a '70 Plymouth Fury III with the 383 but that was so long ago I can't remember.
As for the brakes, the MC was dry and when I filled it, no brake fluid was pumped out to the brakes. Guess I'll worry about that after I find a frame. Thanks again.
Lisa
I will address the Engine Oil and Engine Oil
Filter. Go to WalMart and get any brand of
10w-30w that you can afford. Five quarts
is what you will need ( the first time ).
In 1959 most oils was the non-detergent
type. Now in 2010 this oil is not at every
place that sells oil. Todays Engine Oils are
mostly the detergent type.
The best Automotive Oil of 1959 has a lower
spec than a cheap ( low costing ) Engine Oil
of 2010. This means anything you buy is better
than 1959.
Because of the added detergent factor, it will be best
if you change the oil and filter as if it is a new
engine. Gunk and what-ever may break off and
flow to places that you do not want it to.
The 361-383-400-413-426 and 440 Oil Filters
are all the same. Pick a year and pay for it.
Rodger & Gabby
COS
FltSgt@outlook.com
Roger is right on the oil. The filter is a Fram PH-8A or PH-43. I use the Fram numbers cause I have those memorized. They will cross over to all popular makes. Use the PH-8A if you have room for the taller filter.
If you have time and gumption, you could drop the oil pan and clean all the gunk out of there. You might want to wait until you have it apart for the frame transplant.
Good Luck
Steve
Thanks for the advice everyone. Did I tell you I was very enthusiastic about this project? I absolutely love this car even if it is in such a sad state. I changed the oil, replaced the fuel pump, put bolts through the shocks so they wouldn't compress so I could move it around with the broken frame and decided to test drive it around the yard using the hand brake. Now I'm even more excited, she runs and drives pretty well all things considered. Ok, so I was relieved that not only does it run, but has forward and reverse as well! Since nobody answered my master cylinder question, I will proceed with what I think will work. My old master cylinder, brake booster and assorted parts will be up for grabs.
Question-if the wheel cylinders need replacing, can I get them at a NAPA or other local parts store? Thanks again.
I think your local parts store can get them for you. You could also get them here:
http://www.kanter.com/p06-bk.html#Desoto
Have a nice day
Steve
Alan Ralston, the technical adviser for '59, also has a large supply of parts.
You may need to acquire two or three cars in order to make one.
