1936 Desoto Airstream S1 Sedan

Bob

Most MoPar Owners do not get close to speaking with others about using GM anything in their vehicles so the response that you are asking may be low.

Is the GM usage what you are asking ?

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Ponder the thought of what would be a MoPar Drive Train and you may get enough
data to lay from The West of Kansas to The East of Kansas.
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Do study the Exhaust Manifold Routing Space needed for The Left Side ( under the hood area ) and The location of The Oil Pan Slump needed. What ever drain train assembly that you end up with must be able to use these guide-lines.

Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs

Bob

I have a '36 S-2 with the same transmission, and it's currently on the lift! I can send you pictures of whatever you need to see. It would be best if you keep it stock, but if you decide to modify it, feel free to drop the unwanted parts off here at my place.

Have a nice day
Steve

Bob,
From my experience, (first car in 1958, Vette powered 36 Ford) I can tell you that you are just scratching the financial surface with the purchase of the Chevy engine & trans. In addition to all that Roger listed, you'll have to upgrade both the cooling and electrical systems. The wiring will work if in good condition, but consider all the bulbs, fan motors, etc (not to mention the fuel guage) that will have to be converted to 12V.
Looking under the hood of my '40 Custom, I wonder what kind of left side exhaust would be required to snake around the steering column which will be really close. Will you need to convert the steering to rack and pinion and how will it need to be modified to retain the proper steering geometry? Also, think custom-made driveshaft and will the original differential be able to withstand the increase in HP and torque?
The engine that you have is almost bullet proof as exemplified by the number of them still employed to drive generators, welders and water pumps all over the world.
When you compare the costs, you'll find that fixing what you have will be way less expensive. Besides, do you really need any additional HP and torque, because I doubt we'd ever see your '36 on the local drag strip.
This from a guy that has both a bone stock '40 Sedan and a '42 Custom Coupe on a '98 Dakota frame and running gear. It's chopped, slammed, nosed and decked,
shave and tunneled and damn expensive to get it that way!
When it comes down to it, it's your car and opinions are like navels, everybody has one.

I would like to keep it as stock as possible...however, I want to weigh the cost of restoration against modifying it. I think I will need to spend a substantial sum just to get the car pretty close to stock - it is missing some things like the crank mechanism for the windshield, the linkage for the emergency brake ( I can fabricate that. ), several of the door stops, the linkage for the overdrive-(just the cable?) from the dash down to the shift lever on the transmission. I'm doing the clutch adjustment now, and I think it will be all right. One of the members wrote that it is hard to shift the transmission into reverse if the OD cable was not pushed in-or in the off position. I was having that problem...and sure enough, that was the case. I wired it in the off position, and it is easier to get it into reverse now. Pretty much a good statement for a forum like this one-I would not have found that out on my own!! The car runs good - little tappet noise, but feels good and strong for the phenominal 93 ponies under the hood!

Also want to paint the car, but with the same type of finish as the paints used in the original-not with the new polyurethane finishes. very little rust, but paint is worn on the top, plus the metal insert caulking is dried out and needs resealed. Just a number of things to do!!

I'm looking for parts via Hemmings and other Internet sources, so will try to keep the car stock. If the lack of parts, and parts sources is any indications, there are not many of these cars left in the boneyards.

I have another antique that is a multi show winning daily driver, and would like to get this car to that level. Just for the fun of it...right??

Thanks for your help.

Bob

Bob

I hope this helps.

Have a nice day
Steve

Thanks Steve-looks like it will help! When this rain stops, and it again warms up, I will work on the car. The photo's look like my tranny/clutch setup. The EM brake is not connected at present, but the ratchet/push button release lever works good-just need the connection to the external drum. There is considerable play in the clutch pedal linkage, and that photo will help also....I do like the removable floor!!

Bob

Thanks to steve for the help - I noted that the clutch had about a yard of free play in it, so tore the clutch.brake linkage apart several days ago. Found several parts that were beyound repair. The "clutch release torque tube to transmission bracket support pin" was worn down about 1/4" deep, and I brazed the grove in and turned it back down in the lathe. The 5/16" pins thru both clevis's were worn down also, and these were replaced. the torque tube was reamed to a larger size, and the pins were turned to match the new interior bore. I've got everything back together, and the clutch has about 2" of free play before it starts to pull back on the clutch release fork. Much, much better!

The car had the driveshaft emergency brake setup, and the band/spring/brake lineings are all gone-just has the mounting bracket there for the brake, so if anyone has the parts, I would like to talk to them. I need the entire assembly, including the link between the handbrake lever and the assembly.

The removable floor pan is a nice feature-wish todays cars had that feature!

Thanks for the help/Bob

Bob

The Window Crank Handles or most of the other items you listed have very little
reasoning to install the GM Unit.

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When you do open the hood others spend time looking at the quality of workman
-ship and very little admiring at a GM Drive Train.
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Stop at any Maaco Paint Shop and spend some time "conferring" with them about
a "single stage paint". They will inform you quality of the prep keeps the paint.
In doing so you may also find out they use the same brand and etc of paint sold
at NAPA.

"Paint To Quality not to price"

Thanks for the suggestion Roger. I have been talking to local paint people - we have a number in our car club - about painting the car. I want to use a similar product to what was on it originally, and not do the new polyurethane process - too much over the top for a return to stock project.

I have been finding several of the parts I need, and believe I will try to keep it a stock car. It looks good in pictures ( I would post several if I kenw how to do it...) but is a little rough around the edges.

The cost of the painting process is driven by the prep time/work, not the actual painting. I can do most of that, and that will keep the cost down substantially.

Now that I have the clutch adjusted better, I will take it to a few shows, and sometimes that usually leads to finding additional parts sources.

Bob

Bob

Aguire all the needed items/ suppies to do a correct "Pre-Painting"
task. Triples on every item is OK.

Then let as many as possible member's of the local club that you belong
to know you are having "Volunteer MoPar Work Party". When they show
up on your agreed on Saturday - have lots of donuts and etc waiting for
them. When it is time for lunch have enough Pizzia for all.

If you have three the first time, you may have two the next time if you
planned in-correctly or four if all went well.

When all is ready, ... then head out for Maaco.

The Clear Coats and etc paint jobs can be detected from across the
parking lot.

"Paint To Quality not to price"

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/mopar/ ... 6soto.html

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My email is not as below. It is GibaGab@msn.com
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I went ahead and installed a new pressure plate and clutch assembly, and the car runs and drives much better now. Only problem is that the owner can't get used to the third pedal and slips the clutch too much. As soon as it warms up I will go to work on the interior, and try my hand at replacing several window lift units and glass. I'm still looking for the driveshaft band brake assembly, and think I have tried all of the vendors listed here and in Hemmings. May have to fabricate the assembly or leave the front floor plate out so I can wedge a 2 X 4 under the car when I park it. also may come in handy if I need to drag my foot to stop the car if I'm following too close! I think the 060 - 0 stopping distance must be about 500' I have to install the heater - original Chrysler unit - and find items like transmission boots, firewall grommets, etc., just a bunch of busywork.

Just moved to town from the farm, so have much less property maintenance to do - more car time IF it warms up!

Am working on the lever action shocks now, and using hydraulic jack oil for refilling them. Has anyone done the rebuild on these and can verify the use of this oil as being correct?

Hope all members have a great 2014!!

Bob